Friday, 16 July 2010

In the wild, wet Highlands!

At Torridon, 16th July, passed 1100 miles. Well, nobody said it was going to be easy! After 6 months of drought, the Highlands are making up for it this month! So the last week has been the hardest of the trip - strong on highlights and low points!
From Spean Bridge, Chris and I crossed the Caledonian Canal in the Great Glen and took the next pass north, heading for Tomdoun. We were still following an old drove route - the path one side of the pass existed, on the far side, it did not. Great views but very rough country and reduced to half a mile an hour in places. Finally eached a forest track, 9p.m. camp with a rainbow as we ate our tea. By morning, there was the thickest swarm of midges around our tents. Just made our escape but not without midges in the eyes and the ears! But a breeze came and then the rain set in; by lunchtime, we were outside the Tomdoun Hotel - a return visit to this wonderful fishing hotel on the old road to the Isles, left in quietness since the main road took a different route in the 1950s. A warm welcome from the Kiwi couple working there for the season - then hot baths with water brown with peat, good beer, dinner, whiskey.....aaahhhhh!
Next day, we were dry as we set off. A straightforward day on hill paths to a planned camp. But heavy rain overnight and a high pass to cross to reach Glen Shiel. Even a short sunny interval in the morning but then the next gale blew in. Could hardly stand at the top of the pass and no sign of the promised path. Slithered our way down - lots of waterfalls, great alpine flowers - and got to within 400 yards of the A Road down Glen Shiel, when faced with two completely impassable foaming streams. So an unplanned wet camp and no chance of reaching the hostel booked for that night. Finally wore every last item of clothing in an effort to warm up in my sleeping bag.
But every day is a new day! By morning, water down to a quarter of the night before, forded stream at 6 a.m. and by 9a.m. enjoying porridge and kippers at the Kintail Lodge Hotel.
Then two easy days - like the Lake District in the sunshine! Stopping to sit in the sun, admire the flowers and views, relax! Past the spectacular Falls of Glomach and staying at a great bunkhouse at Camus-Luinie. And goodbye to Chris at Stratcarron station - company much appreciated in these hard days.
Jane came up for my rest day at Lochcarron - lovely despite shaky weather. A great little pub/hotel to stay in - the Rock Villa- everything washed and a train trip to the gardens at Attadale and the lovely harbour at Plockton. She left yesterday morning and I set off, dry and clean for the hill path to Torridon. I arrived soaked and cold, but good drying room here. Four more days of rain forecast! And now, at last, a sense of beginning the last leg- Beth joins me off the lunchtime bus - Craig bothy for two nights and then north to the Cape! Still hoping to be there for the 29th.
Thanks to friends for various messages of encouragement - if a reply doesn't come quickly, it may be that I'm preoccupied getting my gear dry!

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